Serving Metro Atlanta with Stucco and EIFS Application and Repair

Flashing-

Improper flashing is another large source of water intrusion. If flashing is installed poorly, has failed for some reason, or was simply not installed you likely have some water coming in where it shouldn't be.

Flashing is used in various places- where roof shingles butt up against a dormer, second story, or chimney- where decks attach to the house- there is even a flashing type that redirects water away from known trouble spouts towards a gutter. These are called diverter flashing, or "kick-outs."

Roof Flashing

A frequent mistake made with chimney's, dormers, and other structures adjacent to roof shingles is bringing the stucco all the way down to the top of the shingles. Specs call for the stucco to stop about 2" about the surface. There should be a nice stripe of metal showing between the bottom of the stucco on the chimney/dormer/whatever and the top shingles. A rule of thumb is if you can't see the flashing, you are likely having problems there.

If the flashing is healthy, then the process is simple, much like an EIFS grade cut. Cut the system away at a 45 degree angle about 2" above the shingles. Apply EIFS system basecoat and fiberglass mesh to cover the exposed foam. Apply synthetic finish with matching texture and color, then seal the EIFS to the flashing with Dow sealants.

There are times when the flashing has failed or was not installed properly that require extra measure. We have to remove the EIFS to a much higher spot to install the flashing, 5 or 6 inches, then install the flashing and reapply the EIFS system over the area removed, leaving a 2 inch gap.  Unfortunately, this can leave a visible patch on the area that would necessitate applying finish over the entire structure that is being repaired, chimney, dormer, etc. We get around that by applying a decorative band that attractively hides the patch adding a bit of detail.

Diverter Flashing  (Kick-out)

A common occurrence with chimneys at the roof line is water intrusion where the chimney comes away from the house leaving a spot where the shingles end, the freezeboard stops, and the gutter end butts against the chimney. Confused? Me too. Here is a picture that explains it much better.

Deck Flashing

I earlier said "simply not installed." You would not believe how common this is, particularly behind decks. Often, the person installing the deck does not have an understanding of the importance of this, especially with an Exterior Insulation Finish System (EIFS) home. We even see where flashing is installed, but then nails or screws are driven through the metal rendering the installation useless.

Deck flashing should be installed behind the stucco and bent to go below the deck surface and above the ledger and joists. First, the stucco (EIFS in this case) is cut parallel to the deck 4 to 5 inches above the surface of the deck. The material is removed and the flashing attached to the substrate. EIFS is the replaced, and in this case, a 6" band was installed to hide the cuts. The band is completed with the standard EIFS process- basecoat and fiberglass mesh is applied over the foam band and synthetic finish is applied over the basecoat to match the existing texture and color. DOW sealants are applied under the band to seal it to the flashing. The mechanics are the similar for conventional stucco. The hardcoat is cut away, the flashing installed, then plaster stop, metal lathe, and scratch, brown, and finish coats are applied then painted to match.

Click on the pictures for more detail. Note the rivets and Dow sealants in the bends at the inside and outside corners to seal the cuts from leaking behind the flashing.

For more information on flashing, see the EIFS Industry Members Association web site "Guide to EIFS Construction" page 10 at:

 http://www.eima.com/Guide_to_EIFS.pdf

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